Keep your remote controls organized in the cutest way possible with this Amigurumi Dachshund Remote Holder crochet pattern! Inspired by the lovable long-bodied dachshund, this charming design combines practicality with adorable craftsmanship. With its elongated shape, floppy ears, and sweet expression, this crochet dachshund is perfect for adding a playful touch to your home while keeping your remotes neatly stored. Whether you’re crafting for dog lovers, making a fun and functional decor piece, or simply enjoy creating unique amigurumi designs, this pattern lets you stitch up a delightful dachshund bursting with personality! 🐶✨
Designed for customization, this pattern allows you to experiment with different shades of brown, embroidered details, or even tiny accessories like a miniature collar or bone for extra charm. Craft a classic dachshund with rich earthy tones, create a whimsical version with bright hues, or even stitch up a full set of pet-inspired amigurumi for a heartwarming display! Whether gifted as a cherished keepsake, displayed as a practical accent, or made simply for the joy of crafting, this Amigurumi Dachshund Remote Holder is a fun and creative project—perfect for bringing a touch of handmade charm to every stitch! 🧶💖
🐶 Amigurumi Dachshund Remote Holder Crochet Pattern
A practical cutie for your sofa arm! This dachshund has a rigid oval “tub” between the shoulders and hips that neatly holds a TV remote (or glasses/phone). The pattern below is written to match the proportions in the photo and explains exactly how to build the front part, holder (middle tub), and back part, then join them so the silhouette reads like a classic doxie.
Skill level
Intermediate (comfortable with amigurumi shaping, sewing pieces, and working an oval)
Finished size
~33 cm (13 in) nose→tail, ~14 cm (5½ in) tall.
Holder cavity: ~12 cm (4¾ in) long × 5.5 cm (2¼ in) wide × 6–7 cm (2½ in) deep – sized for a common remote. (Customize in the Sizing notes.)
Materials
- Worsted/aran cotton or acrylic:
- Dark brown (DB) – ~120 g (head, ears, front/back outer, legs, tail)
- Light tan (LT) – ~80 g (muzzle, chest/underbody, inner holder)
- Cream (CR) – a few grams (muzzle tip blend, optional)
- Black (BK) – a few grams (nose, embroidery)
- 3.5 mm hook (or size to get a firm, dense fabric)
- 10–12 mm black safety eyes + washers
- Stuffing (poly-fill) + optional poly pellets for weight (in small fabric pouch)
- Plastic canvas (or thin craft foam) for the holder walls and base stiffener
- Yarn/tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, pins
- Optional: short length of 3 mm armature wire or chenille stem for tail curl
Abbreviations (US)
MR magic ring • sc single crochet • inc 2 sc in same st • dec sc2tog • sl st slip stitch • ch chain • BLO back loop only • FLO front loop only • st(s) stitch(es) • rnd round • FO fasten off
Construction overview (read once)
- Make the holder (the “tub”) as a rigid oval cup (tan inside, brown outside). Its top rim has 48 sts—this is key.
- Front part (shoulders/chest) is crocheted out from that rim in dark brown and shaped by decreases to a neck ring of 18 sts; then a short neck tube grows to 24 sts to match the head base, and the head is attached.
- Back part (hips/rump) is another dome crocheted out from the back rim, closed at the end; the tail is attached before you close.
- Make and sew legs (4) to the undersides of the front and back domes. Add ears, muzzle, nose, brows.
Keeping the rim at 48 sts lets everything align cleanly and maintains the dachshund’s low, long silhouette.
1) The HOLDER (center tub)
Sized for a typical remote (~50 mm wide × 20–25 mm thick). To change size, use the Sizing notes at the end.
Outer wall (DB):
R1) Ch 23. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 20 (21). 3 sc in last ch. Working the back bumps, sc 20 down the return side, 3 sc in last ch (the first ch). 48 sts. Place marker. (This is a perfect 48-st oval.)
R2) BLO sc around 48 (makes a crease so the wall stands upright).
R3–R12) Sc around 48. (10 rounds makes ~6–7 cm / 2½ in wall; add/subtract rounds to taste.)
FO, leave a long tail for later seaming to the tan liner at the top edge.
Stiff bottom (plastic canvas): Trim an oval to fit the inner footprint you just crocheted. Set aside.
Inner liner (LT):
Repeat R1–R11 exactly as above (48 each rnd), but do not FO yet. Slide the canvas oval into the bottom of the liner.
Join liner to outer:
Nest the tan liner inside the brown shell (wrong sides facing), matching the ovals. With the DB tail, sc through both layers all around the rim to lock them together. You now have a rigid, clean 48-st rim ready for the body joins.
2) FRONT PART (shoulders & chest from the rim forward)
Front dome (DB): Work from the front half of the holder’s rim; mark the centerline first. With DB, join anywhere on the rim and work in rounds, stuffing as you go:
R1) Sc 48 around the rim (this “picks up” the rim as a round).
R2) (6 sc, dec) ×6 → 42
R3) (5 sc, dec) ×6 → 36
R4) (4 sc, dec) ×6 → 30
R5) (3 sc, dec) ×6 → 24
R6) (2 sc, dec) ×6 → 18 ← this is the neck opening
R7) Sc 18 even. FO, leave tail.
Tip: Add a flat oval of plastic canvas (slightly smaller than the opening) inside the first two rounds of this dome if you want the shoulders to stay very rounded. It hides under stuffing.
Neck tube (DB):
Join DB to any st of the 18-st neck ring.
R1) Sc 18
R2) (2 sc, inc) ×6 → 24
R3–R4) Sc 24. FO, leave a long tail to sew head on later.
3) HEAD & FACE
Head (DB):
R1) MR 6
R2) inc ×6 → 12
R3) (sc, inc) ×6 → 18
R4) (2 sc, inc) ×6 → 24
R5) (3 sc, inc) ×6 → 30
R6) (4 sc, inc) ×6 → 36
R7) (5 sc, inc) ×6 → 42
R8–R12) Sc 42
R13) (5 sc, dec) ×6 → 36
R14) (4 sc, dec) ×6 → 30
R15) (3 sc, dec) ×6 → 24
Stuff firmly. FO leaving long tail for sewing to neck tube.
• Insert safety eyes between R8–R9, 8–9 sts apart.
• Lightly weight the muzzle end (pellet pouch) if you like the “chin heavy” look.
Muzzle (LT): (flat-oval to rounded snout)
R1) Ch 8. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 5, 3 sc in last ch. Return along the underside: sc 5, 3 sc in first ch → 16.
R2) Sc 6, inc ×3, sc 6, inc ×3 → 22
R3) BLO sc 22 (turns the edge)
R4) Sc 22
R5) (9 sc, inc) ×2 → 24
FO. Lightly stuff and stitch centered low on head, leaving the top edge unsewn for a soft transition.
Nose (BK):
R1) MR 6, R2) sc 6 or (optional) inc around to 12 for a larger oval; sew at muzzle tip.
Smile & brows (BK): Backstitch a gentle mouth line that splits at the center into the two short curves, and two slight brow ticks above the eyes.
Eyelids/eyebrow patches (LT, optional): Work a small oval: MR 6, join and sew like little crescent lids; or embroider.
Ears – folded flaps (DB, make 2):
R1) Ch 13. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and across 12; ch1, turn.
R2–R7) Sc 12, ch1, turn.
R8) Sc 12 around the rectangle, putting 2–3 sc at corners to round them. FO.
Lightly steam and fold the top inner edge to form a soft ear crease. Sew along the sides of the head starting about 2 sts behind and 1 row above the eyes so the ears drape forward as in the photo.
Attach head: Sew the 24-st head base neatly to the 24-st neck tube. Use pins to quarter both openings first so the seam is even.
4) BACK PART (hips/rump from the rim backward)
Back dome (DB): Work from the back half of the holder’s rim.
R1) Sc 48 around the rim.
R2) (6 sc, dec) ×6 → 42
R3) (5 sc, dec) ×6 → 36
R4) (4 sc, dec) ×6 → 30
R5) (3 sc, dec) ×6 → 24
Attach tail at the next round before closing completely.
R6) (2 sc, dec) ×6 → 18
R7) (sc, dec) ×6 → 12
R8) dec ×6 → 6, FO, close.
Tail (DB):
R1) MR 6
R2) inc ×3, sc 3 → 9 (keeps it slim)
R3–R12) Sc 9 (add a short wire/chenille stem if you want a curve; pad the tip with a little stuffing)
R13) (2 sc, dec) ×2 + 1 sc → 7 (optional taper)
FO leaving a long tail. Sew firmly at the R5/R6 area of the back dome (center top), then continue closing the dome.
5) LEGS (make 4)
Paws (LT):
R1) MR 6
R2) inc ×6 → 12
R3) (3 sc, inc) ×3 → 15
R4) BLO sc 15 (paw crease)
R5) Sc 15
Switch to DB.
R6) (3 sc, dec) ×3 → 12
R7–R12) Sc 12 (front legs 6 rounds; back legs 7–8 rounds for extra length)
FO, stuff firmly; add a pellet pinch in the bottom if you want them weighty.
Placement:
- Front legs: stitch under the front dome, slightly forward so they peek from the chest—about one round behind the rim seam and 8–10 sts apart.
- Back legs: stitch under the back dome, aligned with the front pair for a steady stance.
6) LITTLE DETAILS
Eyebrow dots (LT, 2x): MR 4, pull tight, sew above the eyes.
Nose bridge (BK): a couple of tiny backstitches between eyes for expression.
Muzzle blend: If you want the subtle two-tone at the muzzle root, take 1 row in CR between the LT muzzle and DB head where they meet, then whipstitch.
Assembly order (recommended)
- Finish the holder (double-walled, stiffened).
- Crochet and stuff front dome + neck, then back dome; seam both domes to the holder rim.
- Tail to the back dome before fully closing.
- Head: eyes → muzzle → nose → embroidery → ears → sew to neck.
- Legs: attach 2 front, 2 back; check the stance on a flat surface.
- Final shaping: distribute stuffing, steam-block ears if needed.
Sizing notes (for your remote)
- Let W = remote width; T = thickness; L = length to sit in the tub.
- Start chain for the oval base ≈ W + T + 2 cm (¾ in).
- Example shown: ch 23 gave a ~5.5 cm inside width.
- The number of sts after R1 = 2 × (start ch − 2) + 6. Keep this total a multiple of 6 so the decrease math for the domes stays tidy (48 is perfect).
- Work 10–12 wall rounds for ~6–7 cm depth; adjust to your needs.
Optional: super-rigid holder
Cut a C-shaped plastic-canvas insert (like a bathtub) that fits inside the tan liner and reaches just below the top rim. Insert it before joining the rim so the tub never collapses when you push the remote in.
That’s it!
You’ve built a sturdy, sofa-friendly Dachshund Remote Holder with a clean profile and strong, symmetrical joins.
